My introduction to Sardinian wine was in the damp and cold garages of Cuglieri in early February, just after we had bought our house.
I spent four months overseeing its renovation. Every day I would go for walks with the dog and I soon picked up the habit of saying buongiorno and buonasera to everybody I met in the street. After some rounds of this, men started to invite me to their garages. This is where they gathered amidst their tools and old baskets. Presumably, they had told their wives they had gone there to fix something. But most of the time was spent drinking and discussing their own wine. Whose wine was better and was it better than last year's or the year before that.
Many Cuglieritani make their own wine. The climate is favourable, but there is also the special history of Sardinia. The rebellious Sardinians prevented feudalism from becoming deeply rooted in Sardinia. Most land around the villages was owned in common. It was only during the unification of Italy in the 19th century that land was partially divided and privatised. Many Sardinians got about a hectare of land. This history explains why the position of women is much better in Sardinia than, say, in Sicily. Where land is held in common, patriarchy is weak or non-existent.
If the truth be told, although it is enjoyable to drink in good company, the wine offered in garages is most often like grape juice flavoured with alcohol. I was all the more surprised when I was offered wine, made from their own vineyard, by the husband of our accountant. It was exceptionally good. He explained that he didn't know much about wine, but had done exactly as an oenologist, a wine-making expert, working in the area had told him to do.
Just a few months ago, we discovered who he was. We were having lunch at Hub in Macomer drinking Filicario, a white wine recommended by the waiter, and reading the label. We saw it was a Vermentino from a cantina (winery) in Tresnuraghes, a village just two steps away from Cuglieri. So, we went to meet Angelo Angioi at his cantina.
For decades he had advised countless others. For example, under his supervision the Tani Winery created the Serranu wine that was chosen at Vinitaly, with 95 points, as the best red wine of 2019. At the beginning of the new millennium, he inherited a piece of land that had been originally bought by his great grandfather in 1907. Angelo planted Malvasia grapes and by 2008 he began the production of his own wine. He produces the classic Malvasia di Bosa, a wonderful dessert wine, a bit like Sauternes. But he is also innovative. His Phoenix is made from Malvasia grapes harvested early in the season. It is full bodied with only a slight sweetness. It has become very popular in the area and we were fortunate to taste one of the two last bottles of the season.
Apart from wines made from the grapes in his own vineyard, Angelo buys in Vermentino grapes from other vineyards nearby to make Filicario. Vermentino di Sardegna is a DOC wine. DOC is the second highest Italian wine classification. They are made from just one type of grape in one particular area. Due to the extensive natural variation, and the smallness of the many vineyards, Sardinia has more DOCs in relation to its wine production than any other region of Italy. Vermentino di Gallura comes from a small area in North-east Sardinia and has achieved the highest Italian appellation, DOCG.
The other main DOC wine in Sardinia is Cannonau di Sardegna. It is related to the Spanish Garnacha and French Grenache. Like them, its alcohol content is high and tannines low, but unlike them its colour is strong and its flavour deep.
One could spend a lifetime exploring Sardinian wines, but there is one more nearby wine that needs mentioning in particular. Vernaccia di Oristano is a sherry-like wine. Initially, I thought it was undrinkable. However, it is the best cooking wine available. Anywhere. It goes equally well with fish, shellfish, veal, pork and chicken. Just a little bit in the pan after frying something goes a long way. It adds a deep rich flavour with just the right balance of acidity and sweetness. Later we discovered lighter varieties that can be drunk with fish and heavier matured ones that can be sipped, but above all, don't miss something cooked alla Vernaccia. This is a common way of serving food in restaurants here.
Comments